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Celeste Heiter's Daily Adventures in Asian Food & Film

20050618 Saturday June 18, 2005
Sweet Nothings

Indochine

This Month's Film: Indochine
Cuisine: Vietnamese

I've never been much good at idling away entire days doing nothing, but I've promised myself that after finishing my two books and celebrating my birthday, I will take the remainder of the month off from everything except e-mail and my Dinner & a Movie weblog. And although it sounds like a glorious indulgence, it's easier said than done for a gal who's used to working nearly every waking hour [and sometimes even in my sleep].

But I was determined to uphold the promise I'd made to myself, and so yesterday I spent the whole day reading a novel and making a big pot of lamb curry [playing in the kitchen doesn't count as work]. I rarely read fiction anymore, but the book came highly recommended by David Swanger, an old friend from high school who has recently rematerialized in my life. The book is Replay by Ken Grimwood, a story about a guy who keeps reliving the same twenty-five years of his life, a kind of expanded version of Groundhog Day, my favorite movie. I read the book from start to finish in about seven hours, stopping at the end of every chapter to chop vegetables, saute the lamb, and stir the pot.

And there's an odd little bit of synchronicity with the story of Replay. My son Will read the book last week...gobbled it up in one day and loved it. The copy he read was borrowed from the library, but one day last week when we stopped by our favorite thrift shop to donate some household flotsam and jetsam from last week's closet-cleaning project, he found a copy of Replay in their used book section. So now we own it proper. It's a wonderful piece of work, and the lamb curry turned out splendidly. I served it with mango chutney and a side dish of tomato-cucumber-yogurt raita. A perfect combination.

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10:43 AM PDT Permalink |
20050617 Friday June 17, 2005
Back to the Business at Hand

Indochine

This Month's Film: Indochine
Cuisine: Vietnamese

After three straight days spent celebrating my birthday, it's time to get back to the business of my 'Indochine' Vietnamese dinner. I've already prepared, photographed and sampled the appetizers, and now it's time for the Soup and Salad phase of my menu. The dishes I've chosen are Lemongrass Chicken Soup, and Golden Fish Nuggets with Watercress and Papaya Salad.

The watercress I planted in aquatic containers in my garden is so abundant it's spilling over the rims of the pots and onto the patio, so I think it's time to harvest a few sprigs of it for my salad. It will be the very first item from my garden to appear on my dinner table. Can't wait, as watercress is so hard to find, and when I do, it does not resemble the variety that I know and love, the very kind that's growing in my garden.

Shopping for ingredients tomorrow should be easy. White fish filets from Trader Joe's, a papaya and some lemongrass from my favorite gourmet grocery, a couple of chicken breasts from my favorite Mexican carniceria, and I'm good to go. I may even shop for my main course ingredients as I will be making those dishes mid-week. And since my son Will is with me for several more days while his father is traveling, he will be here to share the experience. Alas, Rene is still booked up with grad nites and will have to settle for leftovers.

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03:06 PM PDT Permalink |
20050616 Thursday June 16, 2005
At Long Last...A Birthday Repast

Indochine

This Month's Film: Indochine
Cuisine: Vietnamese

The last time I met with my publisher, we discovered that he was going to be in town for my birthday, and I already knew that Rene was going to be working that day, so he asked if I would like to go to the French Laundry for dinner. Well...having been named the world's best restaurant for several years in a row, who could say no to an offer like that. Little did I know the hoops one must jump through to procure a table at the French Laundry.

It seems that they start taking reservations exactly two months before any given day, so to get a reservation for the 15th of June, I would have had to start speed-dialing my phone at exactly 10 a.m. on the 15th of April in hopes of getting an answer before they booked up the restaurant for that day. Rats, I was just one day late. I called for a reservation on the 16th of April and they had already booked the 15th of June the day before. Somehow I think my odds of winning the Irish sweepstakes are better than my chances of getting a table at the French Laundry on my birthday, or any other day for that matter.

So...we decided to settle for the next best thing...Bouchon. Thomas Keller's other place, right next door. The 'Poor Man's French Laundry', if you will. Or rather, 'The Belated Phone Dialer's French Laundry'. Anyway, I was easily able to get a reservation at Bouchon two months in advance.

We were seated at a narrow table for two, the end table in a row of many along a cushioned banquette. The place hadn't filled up yet, so we were greeted promptly by our waiter, who served us a plate of sourdough croutons with a puree of white beans and fresh chives. Being my birthday, I was in the mood for something bubbly, so in honor of the occasion, my host ordered two glasses of Veuve Clicquot, my very favorite champagne in all the world.

For the first course, I ordered Salade Maraichere au Chevre Chaud (Mixed Greens with Red Wine Vinaigrette, Warm Goat Cheese, and Herbs de Provence), and for the entree, Gigot d'Agneau (Roasted Leg of Lamb with Yellow Corn Polenta and Summer Squash in Thyme Jus), and a glass of Pinot Noir to go with. My companion ordered Le Potage du Jour (Sweet Corn Chowder) and Steak Frites (Pan-Seared Prime Flatiron with Maitre d'Hotel Butter and French Fries). Every bite was sheer heaven, and for dessert, Profiteroles with Chocolate Sauce and a wedge of Lemon Tarte.

Before the first course arrived, I was met with the moment of truth, the presentation of the two manuscripts that I've been working on since last November. There's no feeling like it in the world, especially with a glass of 'The Widow' standing by to toast the occasion. Throughout the meal, we discussed a dozen new projects and filled my dance card for the rest of the year.

Having diligently completed two books, I've officially declared myself 'Gone Fishin' for the remainder of the month. After which, it's back to the Modal Auxiliary Mines for this gal.

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03:02 PM PDT Permalink |
20050615 Wednesday June 15, 2005
One Fine Day

Indochine

This Month's Film: Indochine
Cuisine: Vietnamese

I celebrated my birthday today, beginning with the discovery of a dozen fragrant roses in pastel shades of yellow, peach, cream, and pink that Rene had left for me to find when I awoke. He arrived home in the wee hours of the morning after braving tsunami warnings and working all night as a caricature artist at a Grad Nite in San Francisco. Bless his heart, he made a special trip uptown to an all-night Safeway to buy them for me so that I would have flowers to herald the start of my special day. What's more, when I opened the fridge, I found a bright pink bakery box with a gorgeous cake inside [see gorgeous cake above]. There were also a half-dozen e-mails from family, friends and clients, and my Texas brother Michael called to wish me a Happy Birthday in person.

Much to my surprise, at an unexpected moment in the mid-afternoon, Rene and Will appeared in my doorway with a regalia of streamer-filled squibs and a perfect tenor chorus of 'Happy Birthday to You'. The remainder of the afternoon was spent running errands and tending to mundane household tasks until time for dinner with my publisher...a meal so delicious and memorable, I'm saving it for tomorrow's blog.

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12:47 AM PDT Permalink |
20050614 Tuesday June 14, 2005
O-tanjobi

Indochine

This Month's Film: Indochine
Cuisine: Vietnamese

Tomorrow is my birthday. "How old?" you wonder. Well...haven't you heard? A lady never tells...and a gentleman never asks.

I have always regarded my birthday as a kind of personal New Year. A time for resolutions and new beginnings. And in honor of the occasion, I have dedicated a Daruma doll to the coming year. For those of you who don't know the story or significance of the Daruma doll, here is a little explanation.

Daruma dolls are traditional symbols of determination and accomplishment in Japan. An interesting legend and significance is associated with these ubiquitous bright red dolls. The spherical papier mache figures are hand-painted in red and gold, and represent a Buddhist monk who, according to legend, sat in meditation for seven years, until his arms and legs atrophied. It is even said that he cut off his own eyelids so that he could stay awake during meditation, which is why Daruma dolls have no arms, legs or eyes. Today, Daruma dolls are a symbol of resolution and dedication to a task. When committing oneself to an important goal, the left eye of the doll is painted in, and once the goal is accomplished, the right eye is added to symbolize success.

And much like birthday wishes...I never tell my Daruma resolutions until they are a fait accompli.

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11:25 PM PDT Permalink |
20050613 Monday June 13, 2005
Can We Have a Big Ol' Taiko Drum Roll Please...

Indochine

This Month's Film: Indochine
Cuisine: Vietnamese

Many moons ago, in a neighborhood not so far away, I started reseearch on two books, one on Japanese food, and the other a directory of American boarding schools that accept international students. Since that day, I have celebrated the winter holidays, moved all my belongings to a new residence and set up some semblance of orderly housekeeping, took a two-week vacation to the Grand Canyon, Las Vegas and Yosemite, planted a back-yard garden, made eight Asian dinners to accompany my monthly Dinner & a Movie project, and saw my son Will's school year through to the end, including two chorale concerts, six performances of As You Like It, and a bridge made entirely of spaghetti.

And at long last, I am proud, relieved and ecstatic to say that my two books are finally finished....Just in time for my birthday on Wednesday.

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02:19 PM PDT Permalink |
20050612 Sunday June 12, 2005
How the Appetizers Turned Out. and ... A Welcome Respite from the Kitchen

Indochine

This Month's Film: Indochine
Cuisine: Vietnamese

Last night's Indochine Vietnamese appetizers were a delight. I filled the Summer Rolls with crab, shrimp, julienned cucumber, shredded carrot and delicate baby lettuce leaves and served them with nuoc cham, a dipping sauce made with nuoc mam fish sauce, lime juice, garlic and chili peppers. The beef skewers were marinatd in soy sauce, sugar and garlic, grilled and served with a dipping sauce of fresh lime juice, sugar and garlic. The meat was tender and juicy and the lime sauce was a novel complement for a hot summer evening.

As a bonus, just to round out the meal, I grilled the leftover shrimp from the summer rolls on skewers and served them with drawn butter. For the vegetable accompaniment, I made a batch of simple salt pickles, with baby carrots, cucumbers and radishes in a sweet rice-wine vinegar dressing. A light and lovely yet simple little meal.

And after many unrelenting days at the keyboard finishing up my two manuscripts, I finally consented to take the day off with Rene for a visit with his cousin Luisa and her husband Jose in Fairfield, about a half-hour's drive east of Napa. When we arrived, we were invited on a tour of her beautiful Mexican-style home, tastefully appointed with terra cotta tile floors, Diego Rivera reproductions and classic portraits of the Madonna. Meanwhile, Jose was hard at work preparing a feast of grilled tequila-marinated prime rib, roasted corn, and a savory medley of mixed potatoes, pearl onions, and button mushrooms...And plenty of cold Corona Cerveza Mas Fina.

Afterwards, we went for a walk down to the lake with their two darling children Paulina and Emmanuel to feed the ducks. It was a lovely and much-needed respite for us both after many weeks of hard work. Thank you Luisa and Jose.

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06:48 PM PDT Permalink |
20050611 Saturday June 11, 2005
Of Shopping and Sorting, Horseraces and Hors D'oeuvres...and Shakespeare

Indochine

This Month's Film: Indochine
Cuisine: Vietnamese

It was a busy day for me that started with a trip to my favorite Mexican market to buy some limes and a jalapeno pepper for this evening's Indochine Vietnamese appetizers. When I returned, Will and I sorted through all the boxes and files in my home office, some residual work after the move last winter, a task made less onerous while watching the Belmont Stakes. As anticipated, Afleet Alex won the race, revealing Giacomo as the true spoiler for the Triple Crown.

Afterwards, it was time for the appetizer phase of my Indochine dinner, so I made Shrimp and Crab Summer Rolls, Grilled Beef Skewers and Shrimp Brochettes with two different lime dipping sauces. Will and I enjoyed them while watching The Merchant of Venice, starring Al Pacino. Most excellent. Next to Hamlet, it's my favorite Shakespeare play, and the appetizers were equally stellar. More tomorrow on the details of how they turned out.

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02:29 AM PDT Permalink |
20050610 Friday June 10, 2005
Revisiting My Vietnamese Appetizer Recipes

Indochine

This Month's Film: Indochine
Cuisine: Vietnamese

Tomorrow afternoon, my son Will and I are going to watch the Belmont Stakes, the third leg of the Triple Crown horseraces, even though there will be no Triple Crown winner this year, since Giacomo's chances were nixxed by Afleet Alex in the Preakness. But Will and I plan to go the distance and watch it anyway. After that, I'm going to go shopping and make my Vietnamese appetizers, Crab Summer Rolls with Nuoc Cham dipping sauce, Beef skewers with Lime, and Vietnamese salt pickles.

My shopping list is quite short, with only a few fresh vegetables, herbs and seafood on it, so I'm going to shop in the afternoon just before preparing them. The recipes call for rice paper wrappers and bamboo skewers, lots of fresh lime juice, nuoc mam, garlic, ginger, chili peppers, carrots, cucumbers, leafy lettuce, mint, daikon radish, fresh lump crabmeat, and some kind of tender beef. And since it's the weekend and summer vacation too, Will is going to be here to share them with me. Too bad Rene has to work.

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10:14 PM PDT Permalink |
20050609 Thursday June 09, 2005
Serving Dishes for My Vietnamese Dinner

Indochine

This Month's Film: Indochine
Cuisine: Vietnamese

After more than a year of preparing and presenting Asian dinners, I have several baskets of attractive serving dishes in my cupboard. But with my newly-added photo of the day feature, I still crave more, if for no other reason than the sake of variety. Fortunately I have several good sources for eclectic tableware at our two local kitchen shops, the factory outlets here in town, and several excellent thrift shops. Oddly enough, I don't particularly enjoy shopping, except when it comes to preparing for a special meal. For that I will go the extra mile.

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02:42 PM PDT Permalink |
20050608 Wednesday June 08, 2005
Special Vietnamese Cooking Utensils

Indochine

This Month's Film: Indochine
Cuisine: Vietnamese

The menu I have chosen for my 'Indochine' Dinner & a Movie requires no special cooking utensils beyond the basics this time: a wok, a rice cooker, garden-variety pots, pans, utensils and knives. The last time I made Vietnamese food, I bought a little clay pot for the Five-Spice Pork Loin but didn't use it. At the last minute, I changed my mind and wrapped the pork in aluminum foil instead. It turned out so juicy and tender that I have no regrets.

Since then, I've also bought a larger clay pot at a shop in Japantown, but I've yet to use either of them, and nothing on this month's menu calls for one. So I guess I'll have to save them for another meal, and resolve to find a reason to use them at my first opportunity. Now that I've decided it's time to put them to use, no doubt something I see on a shopping trip will inspire me.

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08:37 PM PDT Permalink |
20050607 Tuesday June 07, 2005
Beverages to Go With My 'Indochine' Vietnamese Dinner

Indochine

This Month's Film: Indochine
Cuisine: Vietnamese

Tea and coffee are Vietnam's most popular beverages. A special coffee is grown locally in the Vietnamese highlands in the South/Central part of Vietnam. The beans are roasted French style, and a dark coffee is made by dripping, which is usually served with condensed milk. There is no specific brand, but is rather known as "cafe sua" or "coffee with milk" - served hot or over ice cubes.

Another popular beverage is bubble or pearl tea, which originated in Taiwan. Tea is mixed with various fruit juices and large pearls of tapioca are suspended in the beverage.

Vietnam has no domestic spirits per se, such as brandy or whiskey, therefore most alcoholic spirits are imported. However, Vietnam has three domestic beers, Hue, 33, and Saigon Export.

The last time I made Vietnamese food, I served two mildly sweet Napa Valley wines, a reisling and a gewurztraminer. But this time, I think I'm going to go with beer. It's summertime, and the weather is perfect for a nice cold brew. I doubt I'll have much luck finding any of Vietnam's finest in our local markets, so I'll have to settle for the next best thing, perhaps another Asian label like Tsing Tao or San Miguel.

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08:14 PM PDT Permalink |
20050606 Monday June 06, 2005
Deciding on the 'Indochine' Vietnamese Menu

Indochine

This Month's Film: Indochine
Cuisine: Vietnamese

Last year's Vietnamese menu included Appetizers of Vietnamese Rice Paper Spring Rolls with Shrimp; Lemongrass Broth with Seafood Dumplings; Watercress and Green Papaya Salad with Cellophane Noodles and Hanoi Fried Yellow Fish Nuggets; for the main course, Clay Pot Pork Loin with Papaya, Mint & Green Chili Relish, Stir-Fried Spring Vegetables and Garlic-Ginger Rice; and for dessert, Papaya-Ginger and Mint Tea Sorbet with Ripe Papaya Slices and Fresh Mint Garnish. The menu below is my list of runners-up, a selection of Vietnamese dishes that were tempting, but didn't make the first round, for the simple reason that there are only so many hours in a day, and there's only so much room on the dinner table. Can't wait to try them all.

Appetizers: Seafood Spring Rolls, Beef Skewers with Lime, Vietnamese Pickles
Soup: Chicken with Lemongrass
Salad: Golden Fish Nuggets over Baby Greens with Watercress and Papaya
Main Course: Stuffed Crabs
Side Dishes: Asian Vegetable Medley and Spicy Vietnamese Noodles
Dessert: Creme Caramel with Coconut

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12:01 AM PDT Permalink |
20050605 Sunday June 05, 2005
Researching Vietnamese Recipes

Indochine

This Month's Film: Indochine
Cuisine: Vietnamese

Although it's been a year since I made my first Vietnamese meal, I still remember the experience as if it were yesterday. I also remember all the tempting recipes that didn't make the first cut, so I am looking forward to including them on this month's menu. As always with southeast Asian food, Corinne Trang's Essentials of Asian Cuisine will be an invaluable resource, along with a mosaic of Vietnamese recipes available on the Internet.

Once the research is done, I will synthesize my findings into my own creations, while taking care to maintain the essence of the cuisine. I already have a long list of recipes in mind and will narrow them down to a five-course meal tomorrow. And as much work goes into any elaborate meal in unfamiliar cusine, choosing from among the kaleidoscope of irresistible dishes is always the hardest part.

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12:01 AM PDT Permalink |
20050604 Saturday June 04, 2005
Stocking a Vietnamese Pantry

Indochine

This Month's Film: Indochine
Cuisine: Vietnamese

Vietnamese cuisine has one of the most interesting arrays of ingredients of any in the world. They include Nuoc Mam (Asian fish sauce), which is the heart and soul of nearly every Vietnamese dish, as well as Soy Sauce, Rice Paper Wrappers, Chinese 5-Spice Powder, Tamarind Paste, Saw Leaves, Pickled Vegetables, Dried Mushrooms, Rice Noodles, Tofu, Jasmine Rice, Turmeric, Anise, Annatto Seed, Cinnamon, Rice Wine Vinegar, Tapioca, Palm Sugar, Sesame Seeds and Sesame Oil.

Fresh ingredients include Lemongrass, Green Papayas, Pineapples, Bananas, Tomatoes, Limes, Ginger Root, Coconuts, Daikon Radishes, Red & Green Bell Peppers, Asian Eggplants, Thai Chili Peppers, Lettuce, Bok Choy, Watercress, Bean Sprouts, Cilantro, Mint, Thai Basil, Scallions, Carrots, Cucumbers, Onions, Shallot, Garlic, Mushrooms, Roasted Peanuts.

All these inspiring ingredients are used to prepare every imaginable cut of pork, beef, and poultry, as well as a bounty of fresh seafoods in seemingly endless ways, each more delicious and exotic than the next.

A Call for Chopsticks Click here for details.


06:32 PM PDT Permalink |

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