Tone for the Day

I’ve been in a cranky mood the past few days: annoyed by almost everything I read in the newspaper and online, and feeling hopelessly overwhelmed by my editing projects. There appears to be no end in sight to my workload and I’m none too confident in my abilities at this point.

There are times when the tone for the whole day is determined by whether or not the first customer I deal with is pleasant or obnoxious. At my bookshop in Bangkok we sell secondhand books, mostly English language titles from the US, UK, and Australia. Like at most used shops, we sell the books for about half the original price. We had one lardass American customer last week who questioned why one book that he wanted to buy was 240 baht, while the other one was only 150 baht. I pointed out that the more expensive book was a larger size, plus it was published at a higher list price. Noting the UK £ 7.99 price on the back of the book, I told the guy, “It sells for almost eight pounds as a new book.” This fellow looked totally puzzled: “You sell books by weight?” he asked. I shook my head and explained the meaning of “pounds” in this case. It’s too bed, we don’t charge customers by the pound, I thought to myself; this character probably tips the scales at three-hundred plus.

This whiner was not about to stop, however. “I can get this same book new back in the states for almost the same price!” he wailed. I shook my head once more and told him, “That’s great. If you can get a good deal like that, go for it.” In fact, I thought again to myself, why don’t you hop on a plane and do the rest of your book shopping back in the states?

That behavior is typical of the cheapskate tourists who flock to Thailand. They expect, or even demand, a discount because they are visiting what they perceive to be a third world country. It doesn’t matter where they do their shopping---at a street vendor, in a shop like mine, or in a mall--- they are determined to get their bargain. I doubt these types of people ever stop. I can just picture them trying their plea in a restaurant or bar: “How ‘bout a discount on that bottle of Sing-ha Beer, darlin’?”

By contrast there are the nice, polite customers who are a pleasure to have. This morning started with this Japanese tourist who was thoroughly lost. I was outside the shop, arranging our table of discounted books, when they guy wandered by with a map in his hand. He pointed to the map and asked me to tell him where he was. After that came: “What should I see in Bangkok?” Now there’s a question with no easy answer. I pointed out the basic highlights on the map: Wat Pho, Wat Phra Kaew, and the Grand Palace. When he asked about bus tours, I directed him to the travel agent on the same block. Anyway, this guy was very polite and thanked me profusely. A few minutes after that, the first real customer of the day showed up: a Filipino woman looking for Sidney Sheldon novels. I had to stifle a smile: it seems like every Filipino woman that comes in the shop (and we got a lot of them due to our proximity to the Philippines Embassy) will buy a Sidney Sheldon book. And this woman did just that, choosing a copy of The Stars Shine Down. I’ve never read any Sidney Sheldon books, but I’ve found that Filipino woman are always courteous and friendly, and this lady was no exception. I hope these nice morning encounters are a harbinger for a better day today.

And hey, over in Myanmar, Par Par Lay has been released from jail. Call me naïve, but maybe good things will start to happen.

07:56 PM PST Permalink |

Special Deliveries

It’s always nice when I finally meet people that I have exchanged e-mails with, or who have been readers of this blog. Last week I was treated to two such in-person meets. Mike from New York was in town to visit his son (who works in Bangkok) and then head up to Chiang Mai and Northern Thailand for a week. This was his second trip to the kingdom and he loves it. Stan from Sarasota is also a repeat visitor. This time around he had also planned to visit Myanmar, but shifted plans and decided to go to Cambodia instead. On previous trips to the region both Mike and Stan have stayed at Peace of Angkor Villas in Siem Reap, run by my friend Dave Perkes.

When I found out that Stan was planning to stay at the Dara Reang Sey Hotel in Phnom Penh, I asked him to deliver a letter for me. I wanted to send some money to my kids in Phnom Penh and I knew that either Dara or Reang Sey (the two lovely sisters who run the hotel) would see that they received it. Stan successfully delivered the letter and Reang Sey confirmed it with an e-mail. Now I just have to wait for the boys to call in two weeks so that I can let them know there is some cash waiting for them. I’m not sure when I’ll make it to Phnom Penh again, so this will tide them over until then.

I also received an e-mail confirming another across the border “special delivery” that I arranged. This one came from my friend Tun Tun in New Bagan, Myanmar, thanking me for the package I had sent. I had asked Peter Walter, another Bangkok resident, to deliver some stuff for me when he visited Bagan last week. In the package were some German books for Gaw Chan, a horsecart driver who is studying the language, and some photos and money for Tun Tun and a few of the other village kids, most of whom are probably wondering what’s happened to the pool of tourists that used to visit their town. From all reports, it’s like a ghost town these days.

And on that note, what is going to happen to tourism in Myanmar in the immediate future? Hpone Thant of Swiftwinds Travel in Yangon stopped by my bookshop this week while he was town for a conference. He reports that his company has received over 90% cancellations for the upcoming “high season,” and he is not very optimistic about a sudden rebound in business.

In the midst of all the news about the recent problems in Myanmar and the renewed debate about tourists visiting the country (and I wholeheartedly advocate that tourists should visit this country and see things for themselves), one issue that gets lost in the media blitz is the plight of the average citizen. With the recent petrol price increases (which has also resulted in higher prices for many goods), many people in the country are having a much harder time making ends meet. The UN's World Food Program has estimated that 5 million people in Myanmar are in need of immediate food aid. An organization just started selling "red bands," proceeds of which will go to support needy Burmese people. Take a look at their website and see what it’s all about:
http://www.redbandforburma.com/

And finally, there was a delivery for me this weeks; books from Janet Brown (author of the most excellent “Asia by the Book” blog here at Things Asian) sent via her Thai friends Yui and Momo. Janet sent me a copy of the latest Karen Connelly book, The Lizard Cage, along with art supplies for my Cambodian crew. Now I just have to find time to open the book and read it. I’m slammed right now with another round of article edits for the “To Asia with Love” series.

There have been lots of customers asking for Doris Lessing books in the past couple of weeks. In the wake of her recent Nobel Prize win that’s not surprising. But we only had about five titles to start with, and now they’re all gone.

10:00 PM PST Permalink |

Good Day Rising

The signs were all falling into place, giving me hope that today was going to be a good day: for starters, there were no sign of rain. On the way to work the orange juice lady near Soi 24 greeted me with a sweet smile. Adding to the good vibe, there was a friendly greeting from the old guy selling newspapers on the same block. Finalizing the vendor trifecta, I bought bags of guava, papaya, and mango from the strolling fruit fellow.

When I got to the shop, the first two e-mails in my inbox were from Ma Thanegi and Wesley Stace. Which was a bit of a coincidence; Ma Thanegi --- living all the way in Yangon --- had been the first person on earth to tell me about Wesley’s fabulous debut novel, Misfortune. Wes is also known in the music world (which was where I first met him) as John Wesley Harding, and has released 14 albums, one of which is a companion CD of sorts for his book, called Songs of Misfortune. I had written Wes to say hello and compliment him on such a fantastic literary debut. Wes offered to send me a copy of his latest CD, and I told him I may reciprocate and send him a copy of Ma Thanegi’s book The Native Tourist.

Another good thing happened on Friday; my visa and work permit were extended until September of next year. Getting this done involves a laborius process of paperwork, photos, and visits to various government offices. My visa was actually extended last month, but due to the typically peculiar style of Thai beauracracy, I was “under review” for the first 30 days of the new extension. But now I’m good to go and can travel again; once I secure (and pay for) a new multi re-entry permit. Urrgghh! More paperwork!

Earlier in the week I received a phone call from my kids in Cambodia; the four brothers I help to support. They had missed their monthly call the past two months and I was getting a bit worried, but thankfully this time they didn’t forget. The designated spokesman of the bunch, Huot, reports that all is well and everyone in the family (I’ve lost track; there is either 12 or 13 of them!) says hello! When I am coming back to visit, they ask? Not sure. My timeline is anywhere from November to February. Time --- and money --- will tell.

Best piece of music I heard all week: a hi-NRG dance version of Elton John’s “Daniel.” Hey, I’m a sucker for those cheesy disco-fied covers of classic pop songs and this one is brilliant. I can’t tell you who recorded it but I’m going to try and track it down.

Other good things from the past week: a fabulous dinner at my friend Myriam’s house, and a visit from Sandra, another friend living and working in Yangon. She dropped by the bookshop with her Burmese beau, Kyaw Kyaw. They were in town for a doctor’s appointment: Sandra is expecting a special “package” in January, and they wanted to make sure that all was well. Once they get their own visas sorted out, they’ll be back in Yangon before the end of the month.

Surprise e-mail of the week came from Kimball Collins. Kimball is a DJ of some reknown; he has played gigs all over the world and has recorded several albums. I had seen an advertisement for Kimball’s upcoming gig at Bangkok’s Q Bar so I sent them a message and asked for Kimball to contact me. Why? Well, I knew him way back in the stone ages; the late 80s and early 90s, when we both lived in Orlando, Florida. Kimball would shop in my store, Murmur Records, looking for the latest hot vinyl to play at his club shows. I’m looking forward to seeing him again and catching up on what he’s been doing the past decade. He’ll be playing at Q bar every Friday night for the next month, or perhaps longer.

09:16 PM PDT Permalink |

Music for the Doldrums

I had the urge to go on a relatively major CD buying binge on Tuesday, my sole day off from work. I dropped by the Gram shop in Siam Paragon where Aung --- a nice young woman who used to work for me when I managed the Tower Records Mall Bangkapi branch (about … 11 years ago!) --- is now employed. I find that this store has the consistenly best mix of music CDs and DVDs in town lately. I came away with a half-dozen coveted discs, enough to lift my spirits and lighten my wallet.

On that note, here are more songs about buildings and food … or albums that are helping to keep me sane lately:
Cheap Trick – Rockford
Kashmere Stage Band – Texas Thunder Soul 1968-1974
Pete Yorn – Nightcrawler
Herbie Hancock – The River
Pernice Brothers – Yours, Mine & Ours
Mark Knopfler – Kill to Get Crimson
Linda Thompson – Versatile Heart
Bruce Springsteen – Magic
Joni Mitchell – Shine
Scott Miller and the Commonwealth – Upside Downside
Interpol – Our Love to Admire
Ben Harper and the Innocent Criminals – Life Line
Mark Olson – Salvation Blues
Warren Zevon – The Wind
Futon – Pain Killer
New Pornographers – Challengers
Nina Simone – Just Like a Woman
Various Artists – Last Night a DJ Saved My Life
Sloan – A Sides Win: Singles 1992-2005
Jim Lauderdale – Headed for the Hills
Tracy Chapman – Collection
Various Artists – Bay Area Funk
Sonic Youth – Daydream Nation (Deluxe Edition)
David Lindley & El Rayo-X – Very Greasy
Chris Isaak – Collection

05:15 AM PDT Permalink |

Retail Circus

Working in a retail store allows me the opportunity to observe a wide range of human behavior: some good, some bad, some ugly, and some totally bizarre. For example, we are treated to weekly (sometimes daily) visits from a pleasantly odd foreigner (always reeking of soy sauce!) who sells us pristine copies of various paperback books (all of which smell like soy sauce also), most of which appear to have never been read.

We had one real wacko last week, a Thai customer who, after drinking an iced coffee and pestering us with a litany of inane questions, asked to use the restroom. He then proceeded to disrobe, hanging his shirts (the guy was wearing multi-layers) on the open door. We couldn’t tell how far he went in undressing (none of use dared to take a peek inside), but he spent a good fifteen minutes washing himself in the sink. Afterwards, he asked us how much he should pay for using the facilities. No charge, we replied. Nevertheless he pulled out a handful of coins and tossed them on the front counter. We were relieved when this talkative character, wearing an Army jacket, finally left. But, much to our alarm, he showed up again two hours later with a bag of books that he wanted to sell. Most of his stash consisted of guidebooks dating back to the early 90s, so we had to decline his goods. Before leaving he shook my hand and saluted me. I had an extra beer when I went home that evening.

I’m also amazed, if not annoyed, by the customers who enter the store, cell phone pressed firmly to ear, loudly chatting away. Invariably I will turn up the music I'm playing in the store in response. It’s never a short conversation with these people; many of them stay on the phone the entire time they are in the store. I saw one woman last week who conducted a forty-minute phone marathon as she diligently browsed the bookshelves. Obviously a dedicated multi-tasker, she never removed the phone from her ear (and from what I could hear, she virtually monopolized the entire conversation), even when she was paying for her books.

Then are the ones I call the “zombies-in-waiting.” This group comprises the Thai girlfriends – or in some case, the boyfriends – of foreign customers who come in to buy books. The zombies-in-waiting, however, have zero interest in printed matter (unless there are lots of pretty pictures in the book), so while their book reading faen browses the shelves, the companion sits and sulks at a nearby table, staring mournfully off into space. Clearly, they don’t know what to do with themselves, surrounded by walls of books without a TV to watch. Eventually they take solace in the one thing that comforts them: talking or texting on their cell phone.

08:36 PM PDT Permalink |

Annoyances ... and a few nice things

One thing that really upsets me about all these protest rallies (no matter what the cause or complaint) that you see on TV and in the newspaper are the young children holding up signs. Who makes them do this? Talk about exploiting kids; that takes the cake. Does anyone honestly expect that a four-year-old child understands the complexities of politics of Burma, the threat of global warming, or is able to comprehend the concept of human trafficking? But adults think nothing of sticking a protest sign in the kiddies’ hands and hoping that a photographer will train their lens on such a “striking” image.

Other things that drive me crazy: Children that wear those roller-shoes. Whether they are rolling/skating around my bookshop, or zipping around airport terminals or shopping centers, I’m always tempted to trip the creepy kids that wear those things. Why do parents let their kids wear this most annoying type of footwear? Hey kid, if you want to go skating, go to a proper rink!

What else can I complain about today? The persistent rainstorms and flooded streets in Bangkok? The reappearance of more idiot Thai politicians whom I had naively thought had retired gracefully (Samak, Chalerm, etc.)? But not is all bad. Had some nice conversations with some nice customers in the store today, and a most welcome e-mail from Eugene (perhaps Myanmar’s most fabulous tour guide?) in Yangon (check out the link to his blog under my “Favorites” on this page). And how about those Colorado Rockies! At least their amazing winning streak gives the bloated baseball season a bit of extended life and excitement. And what a great Cinderella story!

04:38 AM PDT Permalink |

Bush on Burma … and more tragedy and comedy

It’s actually sort of nice that Laura Bush has taken an interest in the situation in Burma, and in all things Aung San Suu Kyi, but some of her recent comments about the situation reek of the same provocative “diplomacy” and threats that her presidential spouse loves to spout. If the Bushies seriously think that there is going to be some sort of regime change or imminent transition in the government over there, they’re nuttier than I thought.

Speaking of misguided, another White House stooge had this to say yesterday:
“Given the continuing abuses of the junta on Burma, we urge UN Special Advisor Gambari to return to Burma as soon as possible,” said White House spokesman Tony Fratto. "We would like to see advisor Gambari visit Burma before he visits other regional capitals."

Doesn’t this guy realize that there is indeed a purpose to Gambari visiting influential “neighbor nations” such as Thailand and Singapore before he jets off again to Myanmar? The players in this drama need to all be on the same page, so I applaud his decision to visit some of the other ASEAN countries before returning to Myanmar. It can only help solidfy the strategy (that is, if there is one) of getting the government to cooperate with what the UN is asking. And speaking of influential neighbors, how about a trip to China while he’s at it?

There is apparently an inventive new form of protest being found on the streets of Yangon these days. I saw this report online this week:
“The Burmese authorities have a new enemy to hunt down—dogs which are roaming Rangoon with pictures of Than Shwe and other regime leaders around their necks. A resident of Shwegondine, Bahan Township, said that she saw a group of four dogs with pictures of the regime’s top generals around their necks. Sightings were also reported in four other Rangoon townships—Tharkayta, Dawbon, Hlaing Tharyar and South Okkalapa. Some sources said the canine protest had started at least a week ago, and was keeping the authorities busy trying to catch the offending dogs. “They seem quite good at avoiding arrest,” laughed one resident. Associating anybody with a dog is a very serious insult in Burma (Myanmar).”

05:24 AM PDT Permalink |

Time to Visit?

A couple of good articles I found online today, both relating to the bleak prospects for tourism in Myanmar (Burma) for the rest of this year:

http://www.bangkokpost.net/Business/12Oct2007_biz10.php
http://www.guardian.co.uk/burma/story/0,,2188260,00.html

I also received a couple of more e-mails from Burmese friends that work for travel agencies in Yangon. One woman wrote: “I would like to say thank you for your letter. Anyway, how are you these days? Here it’s a little rough on business especially on tour agencies, but we are hoping to come around soon and everything will be back to normal. For us, we are turning to local trips for the moment especially for honeymooners, as wedding season is coming up really soon.”

The man who wrote wasn’t nearly as optimistic about salvaging business at his company. He even asked if I had any translation work or article assignments he could do in order to earn some extra income. But he’s lucky; he still has a job. Many travel agencies, hotels, and restaurants are laying-off staff already. These people are hurting in so many ways. Please encourage any travelers that you know to consider visiting Myanmar in the months ahead.

05:33 AM PDT Permalink |

Reports from Myanmar

The reports I’m getting from people in Myanmar are slowly resuming. Many people I know in Myanmar don’t use e-mail, so I don't expect to hear from them immediately. But it’s the ones that I’m regular contact, ones who I haven’t heard from yet, that I remain very worried about. A travel agent in Yangon sent me this update today:
“After 10-day interruption of Internet in the country, restricted usage of Internet is now allowed at NIGHT time (from 11 PM till 04 AM). Thanks so much for your message and warm regards. We truly appreciate your care and thoughts at this moment. Describing what's appeared on the media and sharing comments in the e-mail message is not advisable at this stage due to poor privacy. Please forgive me for not being able to elaborate more. I hope you understand. Please rest assured that we are fine and stability has gradually been restored here. We received a lot of cancellations. Even people who booked for January 2008 have cancelled.”

Another friend, based in Southeast Asia, surprised me with the fact that he had flown over to Myanmar for a quick visit last week! This is what he had to say:
“I had no trouble getting a visa. I think the embassy here simply hadn't gotten any instructions to stop issuing visas, so they kept on doing it. After Yangon I travelled up to Bagan and Mandalay, but nowhere else. Bagan was totally peaceful, and Mandalay almost the same, though there had been some demonstrations there the week before I arrived. No trouble talking to people at all. Go ahead and visit, because people are suffering economically from the lack of tourism revenue.”

Speaking of which, I sent an e-mail to friends yesterday that was basically a plea for people to go and visit Myanmar, and do it soon. There are so many locals that are going to be economically devastated by the sudden drop in tourism that it’s important for some sort of tourist flow to resume as soon as possible. From reports that I’m getting, it is absolutely safe for tourists to travel around the country, and even in Yangon.

One woman, a Burmese native who now lives overseas but still visits her family in Yangon often, had this to say about encouraging tourism:
“I wholeheartedly agree with the position taken by Don. I have always been a supporter of tourism to Burma. For people to learn to change they need to know and understand what they are striving for. Tourism gives the human contacts and perspectives that even the Democratic Voice of Burma TV program can't replicate. In Burma, the majority of the Burmese opinion is ignored not only by the junta but also by the opposition. Majority of the Burmese inside Burma did not want any sanctions but their voices were never heard. The fact that many photos and videos came out of Burma were the results of limited economic progress that has happened compared to 19 years ago. We need more Burmese to be aware of what they can do, what they need to do, and we need more tourists to act as witnesses. So please go if you are thinking of going.”

And yet another reply, this from a friend that works in Yangon, and who recently travelled around the country with her parents (who were visiting from overseas):
“You know, you've written exactly what I think as well. They really do need more tourists right now. In Inle and Bagan where I was last week you could see the difference already. Okay, it is low season but still, it was very quiet. Empty or almost empty hotels. In Bagan I saw only two other tourists. In Inle a few more, but most boats were tied up to the dock. Unfortunately most tourists were part of a package tour, herded along and staying on the lake somewhere in a fancy resort.”

I’ll say it again: go now! The Burmese people need the financial and moral support of foreign tourists.

03:13 AM PDT Permalink |

A bit of Bangkok … and more Myanmar

I’ll step away, if only briefly, from my recent Myanmar fixation, with a few Bangkok notes. But I’m so consumed with thoughts of Myanmar lately, that I don’t expect that condition to subside anytime soon. Two weeks ago I was invited to my friend Jan’s birthday party at Elefin, a Thai restaurant and coffee house on Sukhumvit Soi 1. I had never been to Elefin before and was pleasantly surprised at how nice it was: tasty food and coffee, excellent service, and attractive décor. Also in attendance was Jeffrey Wachtel, Waddy Wachtel’s cousin. Who, you might ask? I suppose you would have to be a fan/student of 1970s/1980s American rock music to know about Waddy Wachtel. He was, and still is, one of the more famous studio musicians around. He has played with the likes of Fleetwood Mac, Warren Zevon, James Taylor, and Jackson Browne. Cousin Jeffrey reports that Waddy recently completed a tour with Stevie Nicks. Meanwhile, Jan the travelling man is getting ready for his next trip; off to Taiwan later this month.

Earlier this week, I received e-mails and text messages from my friends So Peng Thai and Chamrong in Cambodia. They were both shocked to hear the reports about monks in Myanmar being beaten and killed. Like in Myanmar, monks in Cambodia are highly respected figures.

Another Cambodian resident, Dave Perkes, was in town this week. Dave runs the Peace of Angkor Villas in Siem Reap, one of the finest and best-run hotels in town. Dave was returning from his first trip through Laos, an experience that he enjoyed immensely. Earlier this summer he attended the annual world music festival in Sarawak, Malaysia. Like Laos, he loved the festival and the rainforest surroundings and plans a return trip next year.

Of all the comments about the current Myanmar crisis, one of the most accurate assessments came this week from Lee Hsien Loong, Singapore’s Prime Minister. Responding to calls for Myanmar to be ousted from ASEAN (the organization comprised of various Southeast Asian countries), or to be subjected to additional sanctions, Lee Hsien Loong had this to say:
“It is better (for Myanmar) to be inside the family than outside. So ASEAN will continue to engage Myanmar, as we encourage and help it to move forward. We have to be mindful of the realities of the situation. First, sanctions against a regime that is ready to isolate itself are more likely to be counter-productive. Second, the military, as a key institution (in Myanmar), has to be part of the process of any lasting solution.”

And that is the cold hard reality. Despite the world’s outrage at Myanmar’s military junta, the Tatmadaw aren’t going anywhere any time soon. Like it or not, if you want socioeconomic changes in Myanmar, they are the ones you are going to have to deal with. One hopes that Aung San Suu Kyi will take advantage of the crack in the door that the junta has opened (in the form of an offer to hold talks) and is able to negotiate something, anything. Would that not be better than nothing at all? But all I’ve heard thus far from the opposition and political analysts is a chorus of skepticism in regards to the junta’s sincerity in holding such talks. But shouldn’t the opposition be trying to take advantage of even the slightest opportunity for dialogue with the junta? It has to start somewhere and this offer, even with the conditions set, certainly represents a start.

01:45 AM PDT Permalink |

Communication Breakdown

Light seeps in. A crack in the clouds. I finally received some communication from Myanmar today; a phone call early this morning from a friend in Yangon, and then an e-mail from another friend in Yangon. Also in the inbox was a forwarded e-mail from yet another Yangon acquaintance. They all report that they are safe and sound, but very uncertain about the situation. One of them wrote:

“internet connection is given only at midnight !!! who knows why !!! anyway, lucky to have contact with all my friends ... our business take free fall !!! less hope! i am disappointed about all situations … i don't feel good.”

12:22 AM PDT Permalink |

Better Times

About two weeks ago I was planning on a final photo roundup of my last trip, just before the crackdown on demonstrations in Yangon began. Needless to say, I didn’t feel that posting trip photos was my highest priority at the time. But I’ve been so depressed and dejected by events in Myanmar this past week that I wanted to do something to remind me of better times; the tranquil places, bright smiles and happy moments that I encountered so often during my travels around the country.

When I read about Myanmar being an “impoverished country” where the people are treated “like slaves” I cringe. That’s not the country that I see when I visit. Sure, I have a warped tourist’s perspective of life in Myanmar, but I’d also like to think that my experiences have gone beyond that of the typical tourist and that I’ve seen some slices of real life. I’ve had the privilege of being invited into people’s homes and taken on excursions off the beaten tourist track in many areas of the country. And nobody, not a single person, has ever taken me aside and pleaded for help, asked me to get them out of the country, or complained about being tortured or beaten. That’s not to say everyone is happy, because obviously that’s not the case. But I also think it distorts the picture of Myanmar to say that life is wretched for everyone. If you believe everything that the media reports, you would think that most people in Myanmar are akin to political prisoners and have to put up with hellish living conditions.

Okay, things aren’t exactly rosy around Myanmar these days, most especially in the wake of last week’s horrific crackdown. Pockets of poverty still riddle the country, healthcare is almost non-existent, infrastructure is horribly lacking, and the military continues to commit outrageous human rights abuses. As the recent protests have shown, there is much unhappiness with current conditions, but for the most part the masses keep their discontent under wraps. To the casual observer they seem happy. Certainly the people of Myanmar have this amazing ability to resiliently bounce back from all the adversity they are dealt with and go about their daily lives as if nothing out of the ordinary has happened. They take care of one another; they sing and smile and laugh; they work and worry and worship; they play games on the streets and sidewalks; they warmly welcome visitors. It’s one of the safest and most friendly countries I’ve ever visited. But then again, I’m an outsider and don’t have to live there. I’m sitting here in my comfy bookshop in Bangkok while the citizens of Myanmar --- especially in Yangon and Mandalay --- have to pick up the pieces and hope for the best. What happens next for these special people?

A charming girl in Mingun who wants to be a teacher when she grows up.

Kandawgyi Lake in Yangon, just east of Shwedagon Pagoda.

Muang Soe Tint, at his newly re-opened Misan Restaurant in New Bagan. The restaurant was previously located in Old Bagan.

It never stops: building even more pagodas in Bagan.

Vendors at the morning market in Nyaungshwe.

Myint Swe’s son in Mandalay shows his flower arrangement.

Novice monk at his monastery in Nyaungshwe.

Young vendor in Mingun with the distinctive thanaka paste on her cheeks.

Young boy selling wooden bottle openers in Bagan.

Waiters at Aye Myit Tar restaurant in Mandalay.

Friendly village women in Bagan.

More of Bagan’s many ancient pagodas.

12:54 AM PDT Permalink |

Where is Par Par Lay? … and other concerns

What has happened to Par Par Lay? According to news reports last week, Par Par Lay and three other people in Mandalay “were arrested after leading a group in offering alms to monks.” The well-known musician and comedian is a member of the famed Moustache Brothers troupe in Mandalay. Besides the fame he and his “brothers” have garnered as a local tourist attraction in recent years, Par Par Lay gained a bit of fame when he was mentioned in the film version of “About a Boy.” This wasn’t the first time that Par Par Lay has run into trouble with Myanmar authorities. He and fellow Moustache Brother Lu Zaw spent nearly six years in jail after making anti-government jokes at a 1996 rally. Among Par Pay Lay’s “offensive” remarks was this gem: “In the past thieves were called thieves, now they are known as government workers.”

In an AFP wire service article, published in September 2005, the third Moustache Brother, the slang-loving Lu Maw, said that he escaped being arrested at that time because he was “in Mandalay, watching the family, holding the fort. That’s why Lu Maw was off the hook.” While Par Par Lay and Lu Zaw were in prison, Lu Maw and his wife continued to perform shows at their home.

Here is another excerpt from that AFP article:
Unlike Aung San Suu Kyi, who has called for a tourism boycott to deprive the military rulers of foreign currency, Lu Maw passionately welcomes tourists. “Tourists take photos of forced labor in Myanmar. That’s why there is no more forced labor in Mandalay, Inle Lake, Bagan,” he said, referring to some of the country’s most popular tourist destinations. And just as Lu Maw credits international pressure with the early release of his brother and cousin, he is certain the only reason the Moustache Brothers have not been jailed again is because of foreign interest in them. “I need your help, I need your assistance. With your help, we stay alive.”

I totally agree with that logic, and I think that’s an excellent reason for encouraging more tourists to visit Myanmar. Flood the country with more tourists; busloads of group tours and hordes of individual travelers. Once things calm down in Myanmar, go and visit. Support the people!

I received this note from another friend that travels to Myanmar frequently. He has many friends in Kyaing Tong (Kengtung), a town in Eastern Shan State, not far from the Golden Triangle area near the Thailand and Laos borders :
“I've been in touch with friends in Kengtung, no problems there. My wife has a brother in Yangon, and she has been in contact with him, and he is OK so far. Hope they come to some sort of peaceful resolution to all of this.”

Another frequent visitor, one who has also conducted group tours to the country, sent me this very thoughtful response:
“Yes, we have been devastated by the events. What started with hope has all but dissipated. But I doubt if this will be the end of protests. Of special concern is that we have not heard a single word from any of our Burmese friends since Saturday. Some were too open in their goverment criticisms when they wrote to us earlier in the week, despite our entreaties not to send us their candid thoughts. But because we haven't heard from them now, we especially worry. What especially strikes me is how the Burmese are reminded that staying there is a career dead end. How can that country ever prosper if their best and brightest all leave?

“I have never dared say a word questioning Daw Suu, but last year a friend at a Singapore goverment think tank complained that she was recalcitrant, and as much a hinderance at negotiating a settlement as the generals themselves. Today, surprisingly, I read the same thing in the Sydney Morning Herald. And I noted on the Mizzima website couched criticism of her saying she was too Western in her thinking that the generals could peacefully be brought to task. Perhaps there will be pressure on both sides now, but I am not hopeful. As for tourism, I think that is dead in the water for a minimum of a year. As for us, we won't pull our next tour until we survey the safety issue. Politics will not be our consideration, as we know how much locals depend on our tourism dollars. And even if our tour doesn't go on in March, we will probably go ourselves. Please don't despair. I know it is painful, but for the people's sake, we must not give up hope entirely.”

That’s not the first criticism I’ve heard about “The Lady” and her unbending ways. She is obviously respected and admired by millions of people around the world, but at this point you have to stop and wonder: has she become an obstacle to the Myanmar people’s hopes for change and democracy? Or, does she remain their guiding light, their only hope?

The writer of that last e-mail also makes a good point about the politics of tourism. Sure, a portion of your tourist dollars will go to the government, it’s unavoidable to a certain extent. But savvy travelers can control that amount and can do much to funnel cash directly to needy locals. The Myanmar people absolutely want more tourists to visit their country. Not only do they desparately need the income (especially in the coming months, in the wake of this latest crisis), they also crave the moral support. Isolation and further economic sanctions will not be helpful to them.

12:20 AM PDT Permalink |

Psychotic un-reaction

I’ve been grumpy and in a daze lately: showing up for work each day, but spending most of my time surfing the net and searching for news about the latest developments in Myanmar. With no e-mails coming in from people I know in Myanmar all the information I get is culled from media reports. So many emotions float to the surface as I read the accounts: uncertainty, sadness, outrage, helplessness. Reports I read in today’s newspaper say that Ibrahim Gambari, the UN’s special envoy to Myanmar, was flown to Lashio yesterday. Another report said that he went all the up to Muse, which is on the Chinese border. Why would they send him to either location, both of them quite remote? What’s he going to do, go on a trek to a hill tribe village? The article I read said that the government was holding “a workshop with a group of journalists” in Lashio, but that scenario sounds equally bizarre. What journalists, and from where?

It’s hard to get further off the beaten track than Lashio, a town in the northeast part of the country, on the road that leads to the China border. Lashio is where the train tracks (from Mandalay and other points further west) end, so it does get a trickle of curious backpackers throughout the year. But it strikes me as a very odd destination for a UN envoy whose main objectives are to meet with the Junta and encourage dialogue with opposition political parties. Lashio is so remote that I doubt any of the citizens there have any inkling of what’s going on in the rest of Myanmar. And that's pretty much how most of this ethnically diverse country operates. Most of the people go about living their lives, ignore the government, and don't worry about what is happening in the rest of the country. Regardless of why Gambari was in Northern Shan State, he reportedly was flown back to the new capital of Naypyidaw and finally sat down to talk with Than Shwe today. Please, please, please let there be some constructive progress to come from this meeting.

One would expect international outrage at what has happened in Myanmar this past week. And yes, there have been the expected critical comments from governments around the world, along with support for the Myanmar monks and citizens in the form of protests in many cities around Asia. But when I go and check my e-mail inbox the absence of supportive notes and outrage over the situation in Myanmar is most distressing. My friends and family know that I visit the country often, and that I have gotten to know many people over there, so I’m puzzled at the silence. Don’t they care? I certainly don’t expect everyone to share my passion for all things Myanmar/Burmese, but you would think I would get more than a handful of notes of concern. I certainly do want to thank those kindred spirits that have shared their hopes and fears with me. Your thoughts are very much appreciated. I realize that people have their own lives to live and most are too busy to worry about an obscure country in Southeast Asia. Sadly, Myanmar just doesn’t rate high on the concern meter for people that drive SUVs and vote for politicians named Bush. Perhaps they are concerned about more relevant matters: the latest exploits of Paris Hilton and Michael Vick, the playoff chances of the New York Yankees, or what color curtains would look best in their kitchen.

06:02 AM PDT Permalink |

Mandalay Monks

Buddhism remains the heart and soul of Myamar, and monks are its most visible proponents. Besides being agents of faith, the monks have become symbols of change for the people of Myanmar as illustrated by their bold marches in several cities around the country this month. “The monks are the ones who give us courage,” one protester was quoted as saying this week.

It’s those brave monks that I continue to worry about this week, especially after hearing news of recent monastery raids and beatings in Yangon and Mandalay. It’s inexcusable to treat Buddhist monks in this manner, and I curse the authorities responsible for this disgrace. But as much as it angers me, I know the people of Myanmar are even more enraged by the mistreatment of the monks.

Venture down to the southwest corner of Mandalay, away from the chaotic main streets of the central city, and you will discover of a pocket of tranquility in the presence of many active Buddhist monestaries and old pagodas. Lines of red-robed monks walk the dusty roads throughout the mornings and afternoons, making alms rounds or just venturing out into the community. The largest monestary in town is Ma Soe Yein Nu Kyaung, home to over 2,700 studious monks. I’ve met many monks in this area over the past two years and I wonder if some of them were involved in the recent protest marches. Above all, I hope they are safe and have not been among those rounded up and jailed. My thoughts remain with these gentle souls.

08:57 PM PDT Permalink |